Jaiden James Interview

Jaiden James is a rebel. He left home at a very young age for London. After a long bout of self-discovery, he met his partner-in-crime, then student at London College of Fashion, Rasharn Agyemang. At first, it was an innocent swapping of magazines, which led to a clothing line. Long story short they’ve shot their way into the industry dressing Lady Gaga and publishing a magazine called Re-bel. Jaiden now writes for Vice Style, gives university lectures, and all this at barely twenty-one. It may be unfair to label him as a young mogul, but all signs point to certain success.

TT: In your own words, who are you?
JJ: I am a reflection of many things, a collection of thoughts — both my own and those of others — including those who have influenced me, both in their work and in their lives, so that could be my close friends or artists such as Derek Jarman, Andy Warhol or Keith Haring.

TT: So you believe that what you emulate is what you absorb from others?
JJ: I wouldn’t go so far as to say emulate but they inform my decisions both creatively and personally. Everyone learns from a past master, whether in school or from a parent.

TT: What was your childhood like?
JJ:I grew up in Somerset — a seaside town in England. They were interesting years but I learned most when I came to London at eight and started hanging which led to smoking weed, chasing girls… the usual shit. I can honestly say I grew up too fast and that I feel those years were a life time away from my life at present.

TT: WHAT? You chased girls? haha wooooorrld’s away…
JJ: Yeah I am not really going to chase boys. Well, I could but how far would I have got? And my sexuality was yet to be defined.

TT: How did designing start? And how old were you?
JJ: I was 17 when it all started. Rasharn and I lived in the same apartment. I used to read his fashion magazines and it led me to start buying my own. I brought a book called ‘How Fashion Works’, devoured it and began to learn about fashion. Actually, not learn, live it. Eventually I became knowledgeable in the going’s on and the ins and outs and the who’s who. Rasharn was studying menswear at LCF and it was just a simple idea. We also knew we wanted to show at MAN and so we created a small collection deciding to do something while still in college so when we graduate we don’t end up at square one.

TT: How did it turn from just an idea into a reality? What did it require you guys do?
JJ: Create — no secret or magic to it. Then to think, be inspired, and create. I mean I could go into the [details]. Well, it was go to a fabric store, pick out fabrics, draw, pattern cut, sew.

TT: Were you going to school at the time? Or how did you “contribute to the team”?
JJ: As any duo that works together artistically it’s about having a conversation. Rasharn and I are very in sync that it scares me sometimes. We think the same thing — like one season we were both thinking gingham and gingham happened. Sometimes it’s a play or both our ideas such as A/W 09 where he was pushing for darker and I lighter which ended up with a juxtapostion of the two with floral skirts and sheer fabrics against leather, latex and straight jackets. I was at school, yeah, but not studying fashion design.

TT: What did you study?
JJ: Fashion Retail at the Fashion Retail Academy. It’s owned by Philip Green who owns the Arcadia group which owns Topshop, Topman, Burton etc. It taught me a lot and I learned to open my eyes especially in the subject I loved the most: fashion history and culture. It allowed me to form an interest in other art forms and how fashion was art influenced and effected by the times — a reaction to the era in which it’s born. I also like business of fashion and marketing and PR which all helped in the long run of developing a creative yet commercial sense.

TT: You recently did a lecture at Solvent University in Southampton. What did you talk about and what resonated most with the students?
JJ: I don’t know. It was mainly about what I’ve done. It was interesting because most of my friends are older than me and to see people in my age group that are just studying… I talked about the collaborations, having a web presence and if you feel you’re ready to create then create as either way what you do will be critiqued. There is no point in waiting. It was just to inspire them really. It was weird as they envied me and I envied them.

TT: It’s sort of like the grass is always greener.
JJ: Well I would like the student life to a degree — to not worry, to be care free, to not have to think about profits and losses, to not be distressed and yearn for more, but sadly, it can’t happen. I am one of those [people] who can lose themselves in a moment but then find myself looking back in on the moment disconnecting from it all and now I know why many take drugs and drink as teens or even as adults as creatives as the mind always wonders.

TT: I would say there are aspects to both that are appealing. So to go back again you and Rasharn started Re-bel magazine. Did you believe you could say more with the magazine that you couldn’t say with clothes? Were you scared since you’d had success with your line and maybe your magazine would fail?
JJ: Success to what degree? Critical? Yes, but our clothes and collections were always conceptual. Now looking back it was like painting a picture as all sorts of elements and inspirations went into them, but not many understood us. London was all about commerciality and sales when we arrived. Creating thought provoking stuff wasn’t in and left with say Garth or maybe Mcqueen, like the black collection. All black meant a lot as that colour means a lot and it can be interpretated in many ways. I am not going to go into what it means or what we wanted it to mean. Why be scared of failure? Either way it would have been a lesson.

TT: Are you the type of person who must always be busy? Or are you content with a slower pace?
JJ: I like being busy if it’s something I love. I mean, can you complain about eating for free, watching movies for free, getting DVD’s for free, fragrances, clothes etc. either to review or to feature? I will work and work until I have enough money to relax a bit and maybe live a little more.

TT: What have you not accomplished yet that you would like to accomplish? JJ: There is too much to list. I can only talk about a project once it’s in the process of being created. People may think I am a dreamer, but there is alot i want to do. I think people frown too much on polymaths. Take James Franco for example, no one believes he does it all, and if he does we still belittle him and knock him back. The thing is, Warhol was a polymath who used many mediums as an outlet and form of expression. People like Raphael, Da Vinci, Michaelangelo they all did many things. Now everyone is put in a box and called a designer or writer or whatever and people are scared to explore their capablities to the fullest.

TT: Do you have any quotes/sayings that you live by?
JJ: Many. Too many to list them all. One is by Lily Allen. She said she didn’t have much of childhood so work as hard as possible now and make loads of money and relive and create a second one. A recent one is, “To live doesn’t mean you’re alive”.

TT: That’s good. What do you think you are best at?
JJ: I am still searching and it still remains unknown to me. I do what I do because I want to do it. To some degree I need to do it to be happy but I am always aware there is someone better than me and will always be someone better than them.

TT: You remind me of Picasso. Once upon a time he said, “I am always doing that which I can not do, in order that I may learn how to do it”.
JJ: Well, it’s true. Picasso did so much in his time. His output was monumental but his work has never spoke to me. But it seems now his words resonate with me more than any piece of his i’ve seen. I do respect him, though. I think life is a lesson and as I said before we like to belittle those who step outside the medium they are known in. If more people took risks maybe we would have more masterpieces.

TT: I was thinking about this today and I couldn’t come up with a definitive answer, so I’ll ask you. Each decade sort of had something that “defined” it. Do you think there is anything in particular that defines today? Or are we, as a people, even more separated and disconnected than ever?
JJ: Well, it’s hard to see what the defines the decade whilst in it, but the last was the rise of the internet and this one possibly communication, social networking and sharing. We are united in our likes instead of our hates. Obviously outside of fashion, it’s all about economics and rebuilding the system but so far it seems this decade the blurring of gender roles is a big one.

TT: Do you think that’s a good thing? Or is it becoming trite?
JJ: Expression in any way is good. If a boy wants to be a girl or girl wants to be a boy so be it. Anyone that’s brave enough to stick a middle finger up to society and live as they see fit is amazing and brave.

TT: Preach! Anything you forgot to mention that you feel is necessary to express?
JJ: YOURSELF. g
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